Simplicity 1202 woven cap sleeve blouse detail

Wardrobe Architect Project: Cap Sleeve Blouse

The final garment to sew for my Summer 2015 wardrobe project was going to be the Simplicity 1693 blouse in a blue-and-white striped fabric. But I took a detour after: reading that the sleeve on that top was rather voluminous re-watching the One Pattern, Many Looks: Blouses class and feeling inspired to draft my own custom design drafting my own  blouse from my sloper from that class, including cap sleeves sewing a muslin from said self-drafted pattern and getting totally stuck because the cap sleeves did NOT behave as I wanted (they were far too tight across my arm no matter what I did to try to…

Linen drawstring shorts copied from ready to wear

Wardrobe Architect Project: Linen Drawstring Shorts

My Summer 2015 wardrobe project originally include a chambray gathered skirt. But my test muslin was far from flattering, so I called an audible and switched it to a pair of linen shorts. PATTERN I drafted my own pattern from a pair of knit drawstring shorts using the skills I learned in Steffani Lincecum’s fantastic Craftsy class Pattern Drafting from Ready-to-Wear. Project features self-drafted pattern drawstring with casing front patch pockets bartacks Process notes traced the pattern pieces using Steffani’s techniques before making the muslin, added to the side seams to accommodate a woven fabric (the original shorts are knit), and adjusted…

Simplicity 1696 Olive Ankle Pants

Wardrobe Architect Project: Olive Ankle Pants

Next up for my Summer 2015 wardrobe project is sewing the olive ankle pants. Pattern Simplicity 1696 Amazing Fit Pants Project features front zip fly with bar tack hook closure mock welt pockets waistline facing 4-piece waistband for fitting slip-stitched hem Process notes made size 12 average fit made a fitting muslin, then took quite a bit off of the crotch/inseam on the pack piece and lowered the front waistline a little used a 100% cotton twill (no stretch) omitted front pockets omitted carriers (belt loops) finished waistband facing with serger instead of bias binding Results I’m so glad I started with a fitting muslin…

City Gym Shorts in Chambray Double Cloth

Wardrobe Architect Project: City Gym Shorts

Since it’s ultra-hot here, the next priority for my Summer 2015 wardrobe project is sewing the City Gym Shorts. Pattern City Gym Shorts from the Purl Bee Project features bias binding elastic waist Process notes made the 35–37-inch hip size used Robert Kaufman Double Cloth in chambray and plaid made the double fold bias tape by hand instead of with the 18mm bias tape maker used 1-inch knit elastic instead of braided elastic separated the double cloth and only used the plaid piece for the binding and waistband Results This is such a fun, retro pair of shorts to wear — I can definitely see…

Warm grey scoop neck tee detail

Wardrobe Architect Project: Fitted Scoop Neck Tee

For my first item in my Summer 2015 wardrobe project, I chose the fitted scoop neck tee with elbow-length sleeves. Pattern Scoop neck tee from Crafty’s Sewing with Knits: 5 Wardrobe Essentials class + banding technique from Sewing on the Edge: Finishing Techniques Project features working with slinky knit fusible tricot and stay stitching around neckline clean join on neck band twin needle topstitching Process notes made size small, with elbow-length sleeves curved in at the waistline, roughly following the Coco shaping 3/8 in. wide band of fusible tricot cut the same shape as the neckline 2 1/4 in. wide strip of fabric…