Peter Reinhart Artisan Breads Every Day whole grain Cinnamon Buns made with All Purpose Sweet Dough

Adapting Peter Reinhart’s All Purpose Sweet Dough

I’ve gotten a lot of mileage out of my library’s Kindle version of Artisan Breads Every Day. Whenever I check it out (I really ought to just buy it already) I uncover new things to try.

This week I had my eye on the Cinnamon Buns and Coffee Crumb Cake, using the All Purpose Sweet Dough. But of course I had to adapt the recipe for my whole grain wheat flour that I mill at home. Reinhart’s suggests increasing the liquid by 1 tbsp for every 56.5 gm of whole grain flour used in place of white flour.

Peter Reinhart Artisan Breads Every Day whole grain Cinnamon Buns made with All Purpose Sweet Dough

I cut the recipe in half, so for me that would mean an additional (scant) 1/2 c of milk. But I did the math wrong (shocker!) and actually added 3/4 c extra milk.

Recipes

Cinnamon Buns and Coffee Crumb Cake, using All Purpose Sweet Dough from Artisan Breads Every Day by Peter Reinhart

Process notes

All Purpose Sweet Dough

Cut original recipe in half; made 6 cinnamon buns and a small crumb cake

Formula

  • 397 gm freshly milled hard white wheat flour in place of all purpose
  • 1 tsp fine sea salt
  • 3 tbsp granulated white sugar
  • 2 1/2 tsp instant yeast
  • 1 c + 1 tbsp whole milk, warmed to 95° + 3/4 c more
  • 1/4 c canola oil

Day 1: Began mixing as directed (flour, salt, and sugar mixed together; whisked yeast into original portion of milk until dissolved; then combine everything) with paddle in stand mixer for 1 min. Switched to dough hook, mixed 3 min., adding some of the extra milk, rested 6 min. to let the whole grain flour absorb the liquids. Added a bit more milk, and mix 3 more min. Added the rest of the milk, mixed, then moved to counter to bring the dough together with stretch and folds since it was very wet. Did 4 stretch and folds, with 5 min. intervals.

Placed in oiled container and refrigerated. (Within two hours, the dough had more than doubled and overnight it was pressing against the lid.)

Day 2, Cinnamon Buns: Removed 1/2 of dough, covered, and rested 20 min. Rolled out into 6 x 15 rectangle. Sprinkled with 1/4 c brown sugar mixed with 3/4 tbsp ground cinnamon. Rolled up, cut into 6 slices, and set in parchment-lined and sprayed bread loaf pans. Let rise for a couple of hours, then baked at 350° for 10 min., rotated pans, baked an additional 15 min.

whole grain cinnamon buns rising in pans

The whole grain cinnamon buns rising in pans

whole grain cinnamon buns after baking

The whole grain cinnamon buns after baking

whole grain cinnamon buns drizzled with glaze

The whole grain cinnamon buns drizzled with glaze

Cooled for 5 min., then drizzled the white fondant glaze on top. I basically used the glaze recommended in the book: 85 gm powdered sugar, 1/2 tbsp light corn syrup, 1/4 tsp vanilla, 1 tbsp cream + 1 tbsp milk).

Day 4, Coffee Crumb Cake: Sprayed a medium baking dish (slightly less than 8×8) with non-stick spray and lined with parchment. Dimpled the dough out to fill the bottom of the dish with oily fingers and let rise for a couple of hours.

Made crumb topping from the book, using soft white wheat flour in place of all purpose, and using a dash of cloves and nutmeg for additional spices.

Topped the dough with the crumble topping and baked 23 min.

Results

This was such a fun baking experience for a few reasons. One, I pushed the hydration farther than I normally dough, and really liked the outcome. Two, I got to make two different things from one batch of dough. I love the way the recipes in this book help whole grain flours really settle in and absorb the liquids by taking advantage of slow, cold fermentation. And three, the results were delicious.

The cinnamon buns were best right out of the oven, although I think I overdid the cinnamon. If I try them again, I’d try white sugar and less cinnamon. The cinnamon got too slimy and overpowering between the soft, tender spirals of dough. Speaking of the dough, my accidental overcompensation of liquids actually resulted in a really dreamy texture — for whole grain flour, anyway. It almost had the texture of regular cinnamon rolls, where the dough sort of peels off in big delicious flakes.

The next day, I preferred the leftovers with a little salted butter to add oomph since they no longer had that just-baked freshness. And I didn’t care for this glaze, but I think that has more to do with my dislike of powdered sugar.

I was really happy with the crumb cake! The long, cold fermentation gave the dough an almost sourdough-like flavor, and I love how each piece is soft and moist, not like a crumbly cake. My only complaint, not enough crumb topping ;) I like reheating the leftovers under a low broiler for a few minutes to warm them back up a bit. This also caramelizes the topping a little.

I’d like to use what I learned here and do more with cold fermented doughs and higher hydration levels to compensate for the whole grain flours.

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