big flat snickerdoodles

Big Flat Snickerdoodles

Snickerdoodles were my favorite cookie to make when I was a kid. It’s been too many years since I made them, and I hadn’t yet tried the recipe with home-milled flours, so I set out to remedy that.

My first mistake was making a recipe other than the one from my childhood cookbook Better Homes and Gardens New Junior Cookbook. Since I tried a new one, I wasn’t able to fairly compare the results of my whole wheat flours to the snickerdoodle of my youth, which was thick, soft, and tender.


I started with the formula for Super-Duper Snickerdoodles from the Big, Soft, Chewy Cookies book by Jill Van Cleave, and adapted it for whole wheat flour.

  • 80 gm unsalted butter, room temp (reduced from 113 gm)
  • 3/4 c white granulated sugar
  • 1 large egg, room temp
  • 1 tbsp milk
  • 1/2 tsp vanilla extract
  • 100 gm freshly-milled hard white wheat flour (total flour increased from 188 gm all-purpose)
  • 100 gm freshly-milled soft white wheat flour
  • 1/2 tsp cream of tartar
  • 1/4 tsp baking soda
  • 1/4 tsp salt
  • 1 tbsp cinnamon + 2 tbsp sugar

Process notes

  • chilled dough for 1 hr before shaping
  • made 12 large cookies
  • baked on parchment-lined sheets for 6 min, then rotated and swapped the pans and baked for 6 min


This cookie turned out very flat, and that chewy/crispy texture that’s not my favorite. I was surprised by just how much they flattened out, considering the amount of butter I left out and flour I added. The flavor is fine — not fantastic, not bad. Basically it was overpowered by the unwanted texture.

big flat snickerdoodles

The interesting thing is that the only real differences between the Super-Duper Snickerdoodles recipe and the New Junior Cookbook recipe are the amount of cream of tartar and the milk.

Next time:

  • reduce the cream of tartar to 1/4 tsp
  • omit the milk
  • increase the soft white wheat flour amount
  • freeze shaped dough for several hours
  • bake at 400° for less time, using the top rack/bottom rack method (a rack in the top third of the oven, and a rack in the lower third; bake one sheet in the top third for 5 minutes, then rotate and move to bottom and bake another 4 to 6 minutes)