Warm grey scoop neck tee detail

Wardrobe Architect Project: Fitted Scoop Neck Tee

For my first item in my Summer 2015 wardrobe project, I chose the fitted scoop neck tee with elbow-length sleeves.

Pattern

Scoop neck tee from Crafty’s Sewing with Knits: 5 Wardrobe Essentials class + banding technique from Sewing on the Edge: Finishing Techniques

Project features

  • working with slinky knit
  • fusible tricot and stay stitching around neckline
  • clean join on neck band
  • twin needle topstitching

Process notes

  • made size small, with elbow-length sleeves
  • curved in at the waistline, roughly following the Coco shaping
  • 3/8 in. wide band of fusible tricot cut the same shape as the neckline
  • 2 1/4 in. wide strip of fabric for neckline banding, about 4 in. longer than needed for neckline
  • used the default settings for lightning stitch to sew in the sleeves
  • for twin needle, set thread tension to 8 with 3.0 stitch length using straight stitch
  • 3/4 in. hem on bottom

Results

Warm grey scoop neck tee

I’m happy with my construction of this tee, but there are several things I don’t like about it:

  • the lightweight slinky knit isn’t great for a fitted tee because every little thing that isn’t smooth (like a bra for example) shows up more than I’d like
  • the fabric is too tight in the back and my shoulders are pulling on it
  • the arm holes are too small and the fabric is pulling there
  • there’s a lump at the upper back sleeve where the sleeve cap is too sharply curved

I love the clean join on the neck band. Waiting until after the banding is applied to finish the length seems was a nice experience, but the band was pulled a little too much and flops open a teeny bit. And stabilizing the neckline with tricot was an extra step but I do think it made the whole neckline process go more smoothly and the result is quite refined.

I’m still working on shoulder fit and am considering next steps. My two thoughts that I’m deciding between are:

  • go up a pattern size from the underarm to shoulder seam
  • or add 1/4 in. to the back armscye and sleeve back, adding 1 in. total to the finished back width, a forward shoulder adjustment, flatten out the curve at the upper back sleeve, sharpen the curve at the upper front of the sleeve

I also want to add 1/4 in. to back armscye and sleeve on the Coco size 3.

I’m determined to make this pattern work for me as a close-fitting knit torso sloper — after wearing it for a day, it was so comfortable and the neckline is really flattering.

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