Sleeveless Coco with contrast yoke

Sleeveless Coco Top with Contrast Yoke

I enjoyed sewing my first Coco so much that the second it was done I began plotting my next one. And since it’s been 110° lately, a sleeveless version sounded like a smart idea.

Project features

  • Wonder Tape (optional)
  • contrast yoke
  • stabilized shoulder seam
  • side splits
  • armhole facing

Process notes

  • made size 2, and shaved 1 1/2 in. off the length (at the bottom, not at the lengthen/shorten line) and 1 in. off the hemline width on the front and back pieces
  • used thrift store tee for the striped yoke
  • used 1 in. wide self fabric for armhole facing, as a single layer sewn raw edge to raw edge, right sides together, then turned to the inside and topstitched
  • stitched neckline, armholes, and hem with stretch twin needle

Results

Sleeveless Coco with contrast yoke

My hemline adjustments made the top tighter across the bottom than I would have liked. I meant to just take 1/2 in. off each piece (2 in. total) but accidentally doubled that.

The size 2 works fairly well as a sleeveless top, but the arm holes are too small and the size 3 works better overall. Next time I’ll stick with the size 3, shortening 1 1/2 in.  at the lengthen/shorten line and bringing in the hipline circumference a bit to reduce the flair at the hips.

Now that I’m actually threading the machine right with the double needle, there were not skipped stitches. However the bobbin thread is too tight, causing it to come undone at the splits. Post-Coco tests revealed that tightening the needle thread tension helps make bigger zig zags on the bobbin side, so that’s something I’ll continue to work on.

Update: Because the arm holes were just too tight for comfort, I removed the facing, trimmed a bit from the bottom of the armscye 1/4 in., and just folded over the raw edge to stitch down. The back of the armscye gapes a bit now, but at least it’s a wearable top. The size 2 bodice is actually starting to feel better so my plan next time is to cut a size 3 from the armscye up and a size 2 below, without tapering at the hemline.

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