Chocolate chip cookies

Chocolate chip cookie project, part 1

It’s rare for me to bake a recipe more than once, not because I’m unhappy with the results but because there are just so many dang recipes to experience. Despite this habit, I’m really interested in mastering some fundamental recipes — both to learn more about how ingredients work, and to have a go-to solution when the need strikes.

Since chocolate chip cookies are complete classics, that’s one recipe I want to master. My goal is a cookie that holds together, has a crispy edge and gooey center, and is thick rather than thin and spread out.

Handle the Heat has done a lot of testing in this area and shared the results, culminating in her favorite formula: Ultimate Chocolate Chip Cookies. She says her recipe features:

  • butterscotch flavor
  • thick, soft, and chewy texture
  • richness

And the technique includes a chilling period of 24 to 72 hours.

I’ve adapted this recipe for a combo of soft white wheat, hard white wheat, and hard red wheat berries, ground fresh in my grain mill. My favorite chocolate chips are Guittard Extra Dark Chocolate Chips. I used dark brown sugar because that’s what I had on hand. And I cut the recipe in half, but used a whole extra egg yolk instead of cutting it in half.


After 24 hours of chilling, I decided to finish the cookies. The first tray of 6 cookies baked for 13 1/2 minutes. They spread more than I anticipated they would. The second batch was in for 13 minutes, but but a bit over-baked because the oven had warmed up more. The third batch of just 3 cookies was in for an experimental 8 minutes, to see what would happen. The third batch is extremely soft and falls apart pretty easily.

The taste is absolutely delicious. I wish they hadn’t gotten so flat, but otherwise the texture is just what I was looking for. Will have to continue experimenting to see if I can’t get my chocolate chip cookies to stay thicker and not spread so thin.

Some things to try:

  • freeze shaped dough balls before baking
  • check oven temp — if it’s too cool, the butter melts more, causing them to spread out and not hold a shape
  • increase the flour
  • replace baking powder with all baking soda
  • make sure pan is cool before adding dough
[recipe title=”Chocolate chip cookies” servings=”12-15″ difficulty=”easy”]

Adapted from Ultimate Chocolate Chip Cookies.


  • 3.3 ounces soft white wheat flour
  • 1.4 ounces hard white wheat flour
  • 1.4 ounces hard red wheat flour
  • 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
  • 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
  • 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
  • 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature*
  • 1.75 ounces white granulated sugar
  • 4.75 ounces dark brown sugar
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla
  • 1 large egg plus 1 egg yolk, room temperature
  • 1 cup extra dark chocolate chips

*I realized after I put the dough in the refrigerator to chill, I didn’t use the right amount of butter. Instead of using a stick, I used half a stick. Based on the final tasting, I didn’t miss the extra butter.


  1. In a medium bowl stir together the flours, baking powder, baking soda, and salt.
  2. In a stand mixer bowl, combine the butter and sugars until mixed, about 2 minutes. Add the vanilla and mix. Add the first egg, mix, then add the extra yolk and mix.
  3. Stir in the chocolate chips.
  4. Wrap dough in plastic wrap and chill for 24 hours, or up to 72 hours.
  5. When dough is ready, preheat oven to 350ºF. Line baking sheets with nonstick baking mats or parchment paper.
  6. Take the dough out of the refrigerator and set it on the counter for a bit until it’s just soft enough to scoop. Spoon 3-tablespoon scoops onto the prepared sheets and bake for 12-15 minutes or until golden brown.


Chocolate chip cookie project posts